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Feb
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Ever since, the history of modern nutritionism has been a
history of macronutrients at war: protein against carbs; carbs
against proteins, and then fats; fats against carbs. Beginning
with Liebig, in each age nutritionism has organized most of its
energies around an imperial nutrient: protein in the nineteenth
century, fat in the twentieth, and, it stands to reason, carbohy­
drates will occupy our attention in the twenty-first. Meanwhile,
in the shadow of these titanic struggles, smaller civil wars have
raged within the sprawling empires of the big three: refined
carbohydrates versus fiber; animal protein versus plant protein;
NUTRITIONISM DEFINED Oi 31 
saturated fats versus polyunsaturated fats; and then, deep down
within the province of the polyunsaturates, omega-3 fatty acids
versus omega-6s. In
— In defense of food